Isfahan is the third largest city of Iran, which was once one of the largest cities in the world. The Naghsh-e Jahan Square in Esfahan is one of the biggest city squares in the world and an outstanding example of Iranian and Islamic architecture. It has been designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. It was Shah Abbas the Great who made Isfahan his capital and then decreed that the square should be extended to its present size, and lovely buildings set around it. The length of this great square, which is actually rectangular, is 500 meters from north to south, and its width about 150 meters from east to west.
When I stepped into the square for the first time, the greatness of the square’s inner space and the magnificence of the buildings resembled the square’s atmosphere of 400 years ago. This square demonstrates a combination of both symmetry and irregularity in a unique set of buildings. There are a set of exact similar stores (bazzar) on each side of the square. However, the existence of Ali-Qapu place, Shah and sheikh lotfollah masque in between breaks off the symmetric patter of bazzar and presents a unique design.
Nowadays, squares are usually used in traffic systems, however in the old times Medians (squares) were used as a place for holding different competitions or formal announcements and celebrating new-year (Eid). Naghshe Jahan is also a public square with suitable conditions for speeches and interaction among people. To the south of Maidan can be seen the great pile of Abbasi Jami (Masjid-e-Shah) – the Royal Mosque a vista of blue, – to the east is Sheikh Lutf Allah Mosque quite unequaled – to the west the royal palace of Shah Abbas the Great, Ali Qapo and to the north the Qaysariyeh gateway leading to the Royal Bazaar.
Previously called Masjid-e-Shah, this mosque of 16th century from viewpoint of architecture, tile work, stone carving and hugeness of its dome and minarets, is a representation of culmination of a mosque building and among the greatest buildings of the world. The masque is designed in such a way that the speaker in the mehrab (alter) can be distinctly heard in all other parts of the masque (known as echo chamber).
Aali Ghapu a magnificent palace built in the reign of Shah Abbas, when the great period of Safavid architecture opened, to be used as a reception center for guests, foreign envoys and courtiers. The palace which is six floors tall, the tallest in the time, in addition to having a tiled staircase and a remarkable plaster-work; much of its interior is covered with frescos and miniature paintings. From the upper galleries, the Safavid ruler watched polo games, maneuvers and horse-racing below in the Naqsh-i-Jahan square.
Situated on the square, Sheikh Lotfollah mosque is another masterpiece of tile work, a beautiful religious building wherein the elaborate design serves to heighten the visitor’s spiritually rather than distract him from it. This mosque has acquired its name from its prayer leader during the Shah Abbas Lebanese Lutfollah, who led the prayers in the mosque
Isfahan bazaar is a real labyrinth of domed streets into the old town. The entrance to the bazaar is through a majestic gateway in keeping with the dimensions of the square called Qaisarieh. The gateway is decorated with mosaic tile work, its main motif representing Sagittarius, Isfahan’s astrological sign, shown here as a chimera. This Bazaar is one of the biggest and most lively bazaars of the Middle East. Wandering through some 5 km of paths, one can find shops hat sell almost every imaginable item. Small openings in vaulted roof let in sufficient light and yet keep out the intense heat of summer and retain warmth in winter.
The interesting point about naghshe jahan square which attracted me was that each and every organ of society met in this one square. The bazaar represents commerce. The Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque was really a school, so it represented academia. The Shah Mosque represented religion, and the Ali Qapu [Palace], that was where the king sat. Every element of society was not only here, they actually could watch each other. Sheik Lotf Allah knew what was going on across the street with the king and likewise the mullahs at the Shah Mosque were in touch and simultaneously accountable for what they were doing. This is how the square instituted a kind of equilibrium and accountability between the top elements of the society; and this is not apparent in the western cultures where palaces are away from the town where people live. This causes the king to be dependent on intermediators and fall out of touch with the society.
Naghshe Jahan is still one of the most dynamic places in Isfahan wherein people can easily interact and enjoy spending time. On the square, the golden curtain of sun covers the ali qapu palace and people disappear in blue veranda of shah masque for prayer. The people are always active here, just take some steps forward and you can see the happy Iranian families sitting round the colorful food tables, the sound of hubble- bubble(gheliun), a little further some old man talking about their memories. In fact how beautiful the cities (urbanism) of 16th century were. The space with such quality and abandonment has changed Naghshe jahan to a public space that is still the center of social and religious interactions after hundreds of years.
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